#LiveLikeJay

“We all come from the sea.

But we are not all of the sea.
Those of us who are, we children of the tides, must return to it again and again.”
***
When a movie starts with such a quote, is there any other way than to devour it?
I had been waiting for this one for a while. It’s about a sport that I find daunting, yet fascinating.
Surfing.
Riding skyscrapers made of water on a thin plastic board.
The ocean is a treasure chest. Often as intimidating, as it is enigmatic. It carries deep secrets, places where man has never been, and might never even get to. The never-ending stretch of blue – guardian of a million fables.
Chasing Mavericks tells one such true story of a talented young surfer who seeks to fulfill his destiny of surfing some of the most dangerous waves in the world.
It brings up the notion of pushing limits.
Makes me think what we can do that drives us to the edge?

What is it that really sets us free?

Most often we tiptoe by what we think is borderline adventurous. Sometimes subconsciously. Each of us has our own reasons to that, when asked why.
Jay Moriarty may be a character in a film, but the spirit that he demonstrates is of the world. That magnetic pull to want to do something that you love.
And the need to do it again and again because nothing else will do.
Are you even alive if you don’t feel that?
Jonny Weston. Gerard Butler. Blue.